Instagram in the Modest Fashion Market: Analysis by the Perspective of Sociotechnical Structures
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Juliana de Oliveira Becheri
Acsa Hosken Gusmão
Elisa Guimarães Cozadi
Paulo Henrique Montagnana Vicente Leme
Abstract
Objective: we aim to understand Instagram's sociotechnical role in the modest fashion market in Brazil, proposing a theoretical-empirical model to analyze this social media as a market-thinking infrastructure. Theoretical framework: the research is based on market-thinking infrastructure studies recently incorporated into the marketing area. Method: in this research, two techniques were used for data collection: (a) semi-structured and in-depth interviews with 27 agents of the modest fashion market and (b) non-participant observation on Instagram. Results: the results demonstrate that Instagram offers an infrastructure that mediates and standardizes interactions between market actors, allowing the construction of the modest fashion market, once seen as stigmatized. Instagram's infrastructure establishes rules that will dictate users' (market actors) success (or exercised power) in the network and, consequently, in the market. Although it is impossible to carry out monetary transactions through Instagram in Brazil, it offers various material devices that encourage economic exchanges. Conclusions: this study contributes to the market-thinking infrastructures literature by showing how the standardization designed to "neutralize the network's power of agency" in users' actions ends up having the opposite effect, (re)affirming its political and symbolic elements. Instagram can be considered a democratic space if its users understand and apply its neoliberals rules.
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Becheri, J. de O., Hosken Gusmão, A., Guimarães Cozadi, E., & Leme, P. H. M. V. (2023). Instagram in the Modest Fashion Market: Analysis by the Perspective of Sociotechnical Structures. Journal of Contemporary Administration, 27(4), e220168. https://doi.org/10.1590/1982-7849rac2023220168.en
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Theoretical-empirical Articles
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Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow fashion: An invitation for systems change. Fashion Practice, 2(2), 259-265. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12774625387594
Fuentes, C., & Fuentes, M. (2022). Infrastructuring alternative markets: Enabling local food exchange through patchworking. Journal of Rural Studies, 94, 13-22. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jrurstud.2022.05.022
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Hagberg, J. (2016). Agencing practices: A historical exploration of shopping bags. Consumption Markets & Culture, 19(1), 111-132. https://doi.org/10.1080/10253866.2015.1067200
Instituto Brasileiro de Geografia e Estatística. (2012, June 29). Censo 2010: Número de católicos cai e aumenta o de evangélicos, espíritas e sem religião. https://censo2010.ibge.gov.br/noticias-censo?id=3&idnoticia=2170&view=noticia
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Kavakci, E., & Kraeplin, C. R. (2017). Religious beings in fashionable bodies: The online identity construction of hijabi social media personalities. Media, Culture & Society, 39(6), 850-868. https://doi.org/10.1177/0163443716679031
Kılıçbay, B., & Binark, M. (2002). Consumer culture, Islam and the politics of lifestyle: Fashion for veiling in contemporary Turkey. European Journal of Communication, 17(4), 495-511. https://doi.org/10.1177/02673231020170040601
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